The latest meeting took place at the much-hyped Hawskmoor Seven Dials. Since opening to the public in the autumn of last year, Hawksmoor Seven Dials has become widely regarded as the best steak restaurant in London. It has received many great reviews and has been awarded numerous accolades including most recently, Best New Restaurant in the Time Out Eating and Drinking Awards 2011.

With such fantastic things said about Hawksmoor, it is understandable that expectations of the S.A.S were particularly high on this occasion.

We met for a pre-feast tipple at a local pub on the Sevens Dials. At 8PM sharp we headed down Mercer Street then zigzagged towards Langley Street where the mighty Hawksmoor awaited us. The Langley street venue is situated well, away from the hustle and bustle of theatre land but near enough to be convenient.

The entrance to Hawksmoor Seven Dials is a grand one. Diners are greeted at the ground-level reception by the very friendly front-of-house.  Then guests make their way down into a subterranean bar for aperitifs.

Hawksmoor has an especially warm welcome for members of the S.A.S, in that our motto ‘Beef and Liberty’ is written in big gold letters, framed high up on the wall that faces you as you enter the bar.

Things were getting off to a good start.

The owners of Hawksmoor have spared no expense in making the Seven Dials venue a very special one. The attention to detail throughout is spectacular. Much of the building retains its original features (it used to be a brewery) including a vaulted brick ceiling and cast iron pillars. And many of the furnishings have been salvaged from other places including the parquet flooring and wood paneling.

As well as selling great quality beef steaks, Hawksmoor has built a reputation as a purveyor of fine cocktails to suit. The impressive cocktail list comprises all the usual favourites, some long lost classics as well as some new ones invented by their award-winning mixologists. Our treasurer had kindly prearranged some very appropriate drinks. A meat-infused martini awaited each member to kick-start the evening’s affairs.

Things were going very well.

With headcount growing at a rate of two a meeting, one of the challenges we’re facing is finding quality venues that can cater to such a crowd. Fortunately Hawksmoor Seven Dials has the perfect space. The private room seats up to 16 people and regularly hosts other steak clubs including the Liverpool and London Gentlemen and the Steakholders.

The evening got underway with an introduction by the Chairman and the welcoming of our latest recruits, Messrs.’ Trehane, Childs and Schrijnen. The newly appointed Recorder, Mr Ben Ashby, took thorough minutes of the evening’s events, full details of which can be found in the meetings section.

For the sake of simplicity we had arranged a set menu, a £60 per-head, comprising:

• Starters: Tamworth Belly Ribs – Smoked Salmon – Summer Salad
• Mains: Porterhouse – Prime Rib – Chateaubriand
• Selection of Sides & Sauces
• Puddings: Sticky Toffee Pudding or Ice Cream or Neal’s Yard Cheeses

The meat was washed down with some tasty Rioja priced around the £50 mark.

All the beef served at Hawksmoor is sourced from the highly regarded Ginger Pig. The Ginger Pig have raised the largest herd of Longhorns in the country, which comprises 140 cows and 220 calves at any one time. They provide meat to a number of London’s leading restaurants. And for aspiring butchers, Ginger Pig also run a series of courses at their Marylebone shop.

Cooked over a charcoal grill, the steaks at Hawksmoor are prepared in our favourite way. Always intrigued to see the masters in action, we usually request a guided tour of the kitchen. Sadly on this occasion however, we were not permitted a look as their kitchen’s size apparently does not permit for guests. Even important ones like us.

When the main course arrived an eerie silence fell across the room. It was easy to sense the nervous anticipation felt by all.  Sadly however, as the feasting began, the reaction to the Hawksmoor beefsteaks was not as positive as we had hoped for.

This is not to say the meat was not good quality, but it certainly lacked the depth and flavour we were expecting from steaks of such an establishment. The meat was also slightly overcooked for our collective liking.

On any other day of the week, had we tasted the steaks served to us by Hawksmoor, we would have likely commented on how good they were. But the combined expectation of the magical Hawksmoor & Ginger Pig collaboration, together with the levels of quality the S.A.S have become accustomed to, unfortunately left a disappointing taste in our mouths.

It was also slightly disappointing not to have been told more about the steaks ahead of the meal. On our recent visit to Goodman for example, Jonathan showed us the uncooked steaks beforehand and spoke eloquently about the provenance of each before taking our orders. We expected at least this level of expertise and advise coming from Hawksmoor, especially given how passionate and expert the owners obviously are.

Perhaps one of the problems was ordering a set menu. In the absence of choice there was perhaps less reason for an introduction to the product, but nonetheless a high level of expertise is always appreciated.

Since visiting Hawksmoor, the owners have been in contact with both the treasurer and myself to follow up on our experience. On hearing that we did not entirely enjoy our steaks, they made a very generous offer for us to come and experience Hawksmoor Seven Dials a second time.

Needless to say we have accepted and we are all excited about our return visit late in the year.

In the meantime we’re booked into our Ginger Pig butchery course and will be trying out some recipes at home courtesy of the Hawksmoor’s new book, Hawksmoor At Home.

Beef & Liberty

Since its 2009 opening, Goodman has firmly established itself as one of London’s finest steak restaurants. Goodman is located on Maddox Street, a quiet road behind Hanover Square in central London. It’s a Russian owned American style steak house. The decor is wood and leather, with booths and black and white photos on the walls. All-in-all a thoroughly comfortable and cosy setting.

But we did not come to Goodman to admire the interior decoration. Our only mission was to devour whatever red meat was placed in front of us. Or at least that was the case for most of us, but more of that later.

As has become customary, the format at SAS meetings is simple. No starters, each man chooses his own steak, a few sides are shared amongst the table and the red wine flows as rapidly as it needs to. Monthly subs contribute to a society account, which in theory should fund the evening. However with every member wanting to maximise the value of their society contribution, what typically happens is that everyone orders the most expensive and largest steak on the menu. This is perfectly acceptable behaviour and indeed is condoned by the society, providing you finish your plate.

To deter those with eyes larger than their gut from ordering more beef than their belly could stomach, this year we introduced a new law, which states that ‘any person not finishing their steak must adopt a cow via Farm Animal Rescue‘. Sadly to say the SAS are now the proud owner of Gromit, a bullock abandoned by a farmer who no longer wanted to feed him. The culprit was new member Charles Fraser who will be updating the society of Gromit’s wellbeing at our next gathering.

The choice of meat at Goodman is exceptional. All beef comes from either the US or Britain, provided by a handful of carefully selected producers. Goodman cut their beef every day and whatever is available is written up in chalk on a large blackboard. On the day we visited the selection was extensive. The corn-fed (for 150 days) USDA beef was available as Porterhouse (650g, 750g or 1.2k), T-bone (600g or 700g), Bone-in Sirloin (350g, 450g, 550g or 650g), Bone-in Rib-eye (850g) or Chateau Briand (700g, 800g or 950g). The grass-fed British O-Shea been was available only as Bone-in Ribeye (750g or 900g).

Sample cuts were presented to us pre-cooked by the incredibly helpful and friendly Jonathan, who together with host Crispin, made the night a special one. They knew their stuff, were always on hand to help and even gave us a tour of the kitchen to see the chefs in action.

Needless to say when it came to ordering, we did not let the side down. In total we ordered 7.6kg of beef including 2x 850g Bone-in Ribeye’s and a 950g Chateau Briand.

Other than the small matter of Fraser’s leftovers, all other plates were licked clean and the society was unanimously stuffed and satisfied. Or so we thought. Thanks to the watchful eye of our sitting President, an abominable and despicable act of treachery was brought to the groups attention. And the culprit was none other than our honourable Treasurer.

Unable to finish the final mouthful of his Chateau Briand, Mr. Aldwinkle craftily slipped the slither of beef onto the floor whilst nobody was looking. Unbeknown to him Mr Cosgrave saw exactly what was going on and raised the matter immediately. Although denying the act at first, eventually the Treasurer admitted to his crime. The jury is still out on this one but at the very least Edward will be drinking Creme de Menthe at the next meeting and quite possible will be eating fish too.

Soon after the plates were cleared the night descended into chaos and despite attempts by Chairman and President to restore order the last few items on the evenings agenda went largely ignored.

But despite the unruliness it’s fair to say the third meeting was an absolute success. We all look forward to reconvening in the summertime.

Beef & Liberty

Relais is a place where the absence of choice is a positive thing, as the strict no-reservations policy means by the time you eventually get a table there is little time to ponder over extensive steak options. Last week myself and five members of S.A.S had an informal gathering to sample the wares of the venue we had heard so much about, but had yet to visit.

On enquiring about securing a table I was told to show up before 7PM or face a potentially long wait. I arrived in a timely fashion at 6.40PM, ahead of my fellow diners, to what was an almost empty restaurant. Of the 30 or so tables, only three were occupied and I wondered what all the fuss was about. But when I requested a table for six I was told I could not be seated until the rest of the party had arrived, as this would be costly to them. To bide my time I popped over the road to The Angel in the Fields (great pub!) for a swift pint of Samuel Smith’s. No more than 15 minutes had passed when I received a call from one of the group telling me he was outside the restaurant stuck in a very long queue. To my amazement when I arrived back at Relais, the place was heaving and a queue of no less then 3o people stretched round the corner.

In the end we waited almost an hour to be seated, all the while our angry drooling faces on full view to those already feasting (an unpleasant  site I am sure). It’s a long time to wait, especially outside in wintery conditions. A simple gesture of a glass of vin chaude or something to warm the cockles would have gone down well, but sadly there was no such pleasure.

We were served by the lovely Paula who was friendly and knowledgeable about the menu. As Relais first-timers she briefed us on the format, which naturally did not take long. Having watched an entire sitting of people gorge before us our appetites were well and truly wetted, and so all six opted for double portions (a first Paula told us). The standard portion comprises 180g Entrecôte Steak, a handful of skinny frittes and a small side salad. Double this and you have yourself a decent meal. Along with the food we ordered a couple of bottles of the Le Relais de Venise Côtes de Bordeaux at a very reasonably price of £14.95.

The meal arrived a short time later, or at least half of it did. Relais serve your steak in two stages, so that you can enjoy the entire meal at optimum temperatures. A nice touch I thought. The meat itself was of very high quality, though given they source their beef from the Queens favourite butcher Donald Russell, that was to be expected. The principle conversation amongst the S.A.S was not the quality of the steak but the ingredients of the secret sauce. Mustard, garlic, tarragon, lemon, basil, coriander, green peppercorn were all suggested as potential ingredients, but in the end there was only one thing that made it taste so bloody delicious and that was the vast quantity of butter it contained.

We finished the meal with a plate of profiteroles and a double expresso. The price tag in total was a fairly hefty 66 British Pounds, but bearing in mind this included twice the normal amount of food and a decent volume of wine this was well worth it.

Was it worth the wait as well? On balance I would say so. Le Relais de Venise offers a unique and enjoyable dining experience. The staff are nice and the food is very good quality. In the end the lengthy queues are simply a testament to how well the folks at Relais have executed their impressive concept.

Verdict: wrap up warm and bring a flask, but stick it out as you’ll leave a satisfied customer.

I have to say their website is great. It looks nice, it’s simple to use and most importantly has loads of information about the beef. After a painless shopping experience I opted for the barrel fillet for two. I dropped James a note to inform him and shortly after received an email telling me that along with my order, I’d be receiving:

1 x 350g sirloin
1 x 500g t-bone
1 x 350g rump
4 x Dexter burgers
1 x Richards steak rub

Lucky me I thought.

Delivery date was set for Friday and shortly beforehand I was mightily impressed to receive a text message from TonyBeef  informing me that my steak was on route. Very simple yet very effective. My mouth was watering already, and it wasn’t even lunchtime.

When I finally arrived home, the only challenge awaiting me was which cut to choose. All looked tempting. I was particularly impressed with way the steaks were packaged and delivered. Each one was individually wrapped in stylish brown paper and was very clearly labelled. The steaks are delivered straight from the butchers block, having been dry-aged for 28 days, so have never been frozen (something I think is quite important for retaining the flavour achieved from the dry-ageing process).

With a healthy appetite in the end I opted for the 500g T-bone, which actually turned out to be 600g. 7 minutes on either side cooked the meat to perfection. A few minutes to stand then served on a bed on rocket with a handful of pomodorini and a pinch of Malden sea salt to season.

Having read about the provenance of the meat I had high expectations of what I was about to taste. East London Steak Co. source all their beef from small, family owned and operated farms that reflect their own attitudes to beef production, with a focus on traditional and rare breeds rather than more mainstream breeds. Dexter, Galloway, Aberdeen-Angus, Shorthorn and Longhorn are all breeds that they sell.

I can honestly say that my expectations were not let down. The steak was full of flavour and the texture was impecable, incredibly tender. It was of exceptional quality.

With a fridge full of steak waiting to be eaten, the next day I decided to try another one of the cuts. This time I went for the 350g Rump. A smaller cut, this one only needed about 2 1/2 minutes a side to get to perfect. In terms of the taste test this one also passed with flying colours. My wife Tillie had a mouthful and declared it “the best steak I have ever tasted” and my two-year old Freddie certainly enjoyed it eating at least 10 mouthfuls, something he has never really done before. Naturally I was a very proud daddy!

A huge thanks to James and the guys at East London Steak Company for sending over the samples. You’ve secured a customer in me and I would thoroughly recommend to the people who read this blog that they give you a try too.

First order placed – 2 x 350g Bone in Fillet – which will hopefully arrive in time for steak night!

Will report back shortly.

It’s no longer uncommon to see vending machines used to sell fragrances, bathing suits and shoes—or even farm produce and health foods. Not until recently, however, had we seen one installed at a butcher’s shop—and a 100-year-old shop, at that.

With three stores in Northern Spain, Izarzugaza has been operating for four generations in more or less the traditional way. Not long ago the store began selling online, however, and delivering to customers as far-flung as Segovia and Madrid. Even more interesting, though, is that it has installed a vending machine outside its Mundaka shop that sells a variety of meats, sausages, sandwiches and other goods around the clock. Products sold within the machine vary with the season, so that summer offerings might include pasta salads while the emphasis is more on meatballs and sausages in the wintertime.

Izarzugaza is also notable for the fact that it has installed in-shop technology that gives customers the option of ordering via touch-screen. The primary benefit? The technology recognizes multiple languages—a useful capability for vendors located in popular tourist destinations, the way Izarzugaza is—including Castilian, Euskara and English, with French and German coming soon, according to El Mundo.

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